Archive for the 'Travel' Category

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Getaway to Tamil Nadu

Shore TempleIt was once again time to get out of dodge, and this time we decided to head east to the Bay of Bengal. Venu and his trusty steed the Innova, got Bob, Heather, Prachee and I out of Bangalore and into the neighboring state of Tamil Nadu. Anytime you leave the city in India, it’s like you’ve left the country all together – there’s just not that many people! You get reminders about where you are along the way when you enter one of the regional towns – then it all comes rushing back… literally.

Our first stop was Pondicherry which used to be a French colony. The old French town is very quaint with all street names in french and a great beach promenade which acts as the central meeting point for the town. We spent two nights at Le Dupleix, an old mansion that had been renovated and turned into a hotel. We can also recommend the restaurant Rendezvous – especially for Breakfast. In between eating :) we went to Auroville, an “experimental International community” – click on the link to find out more. In my opinion, cool idea/concept but the execution borders on a cult.

Bob behind the cameraOn Sunday morning we got an early start heading north on the road bordering the Bay of Bengal on our way to Mamallapuram (used to be called Mahabalipuram). We stayed at the Ideal Beach Resort an out of the way place that had it’s own beach (albeit shared with farm animals). Mamallapuram is known for the Shore temple – a small, but very cool temple literally meters from the waves. Click on the Shore Temple to see our photos and on Bob snapping away for Heather & Bob’s pictures.

Chikmaglur Weekend Getaway

A moment in time where we had the temple  practically to ourselvesWhen you live in an Indian city such as Bangalore, sometimes you just have to get away! However, you must earn your relaxing weekend by running the Indian highway gauntlet – with Venu at the command of the Innova, he got us safely there and back expertly navigating the herds of goats, overtaking the lumbering lorries and staring down the crazy bus drivers (I think they only ran us off the road twice).

Prachee had planned a great weekend of culture and relaxation. On the way outstation, we visited two 800 year old Hindu Temples at Halebeed and Belur. The intricate stone carvings at Halebeed were simply amazing – it took some 80 years of work and even then it was never completed. We stayed at the Taj Garden Retreat in Chikmaglur were we enjoyed reading by the pool and long meals at the restaurant. We also went on a tour of a coffee plantation and roasting factory – the Chikmaglur area produces nearly 40% of India’s coffee. On our way home we stopped at the Jain Temple at Sravanabelagola, which has a 17m carved granite monolith of Gomadeshvara. I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking… check them out.

Kabini Jungle Safari

200Kgs of grass each day - gotta keep eatingOver the Easter long weekend, Charles and I took our first road trip in India with our driver Venu. We drove from Bangalore through Mysore and continued south west into the Nagarhole National Park and to the backwaters of the Kabini river. This region has one of the largest population of Asiatic elephants in the world – and they were definitely the source of my excitement for this trip!
Our drive down on the Bangalore-Mysore “highway” was humorous, where we shared the road with cows, goats, camels, tractors, a bus loaded up with people on the roof, a little three-wheeler filled with coconuts with a dude sleeping on top of them. After Mysore, we made our way through several tiny villages and dirt roads all the way to Kabini. On the village roads we saw several goat, sheep, and cow herders. In a way, the jungle safari had already begun.

We arrived at the Cicada Resort Lodge around noon on Friday where we were greeted with fresh Coconut water (narial pani). Our villa was absolutely gorgeous and overlooked the river. The setting was serene with sounds of birds, cool evening breezes and perfect sunsets. We also enjoyed ‘Kingfishers’ (beer not the bird) by the pool in the afternoons in between our jungle safaris and cruised around in a paddle boat one evening.

It is high season in Kabini right now as the jungle is dry and the river waters are low, so the animals have to come to the river to bathe, drink & graze on the grass growing on the moist bank – which means lots of sightings for us humans.
Safaris: We went on a morning jeep safari and an evening boat safari. The morning safari was perfect for bird watching and we saw lots including peacocks, woodpeckers, and kingfishers. We were lucky to also see our first elephants of the trip grazing just off the safari trail. The male elephants abandon their herd when they are about 15 years old and walk around by themselves. These guys have the crazy tusks! The herds are mainly female and baby elephants. It’s amazing to think that these largest of  land animals survive on a diet of basically grass. We also saw 2 kinds of Indian monkeys, the ‘langurs’ and the ‘macaques’ and tons of spotted deer. We didn’t have a tiger sighting unfortunately, but will certainly plan to go back to Kabini, so we’ll have another shot at it!
The evening boat safari was our favorite. We saw loads of elephants on the banks of the river. I saw the cutest baby elephant standing under mommy elephant and nursing. Another mommy elephant was teaching her little one the trunk technique of plucking grass from the ground and carrying it to its mouth. We also saw hoards of spotted deer grazing, ‘gaur’ which is a large Indian buffalo, more monkeys, birds, and enjoyed the sunset on our way back.

It was the perfect getaway from bustling Bangalore and we highly recommend Kabini to those that plan to visit us.

Weekend in Pune

This past weekend we went to visit Prachee’s grandparents Aai & Paapa in Pune in the state of Maharashtra (same state as Mumbai on the western coast of India).  We took advantage that Monday was a holiday – Ugadi, the start of the lunar New Year, aka Spring Equinox (in Maharashtra, it is known as Gudi Padwa).Out to dinner with Aai & Paapa

India has embraced the low fare airline revolution and we flew SpiceJet, one of the many companies that have sprouted in the last couple of years.  The flight was as expected, but the airport wait was pure comedy – from the laptop & cell phone carrying sadhu’s, to the incessant pa system calls (this is the final boarding call… we really mean it this time).

My personal favorite airport moment leads me to the start of a new feature for this blog called “Only in India.”  In the airport departure lounge there is a very nice vending machine full of the latest editions of magazines and newspapers.  When you approach it you realize that the young man sitting beside the machine is not actually waiting for a flight.  He greets you and asks which one you’d like.  When you’ve made your selection by pointing at it, he promptly opens the vending machine, grabs your magazine and takes your money… only in India!

It was a great weekend of family visits and fantastic food!  We stayed with Prachee’s grandparents, but also got a chance to see Uday and Alka (and Nikhil), Prachee’s maternal aunt and uncle who attended our wedding.  As well as many other aunts, uncles and cousins from both sides of the family who also live in Pune.  Also, food played a major role in the weekend… if you know Prachee you are not surprised.  We went to old favorite restaurants getting our fix of “Marathi” food.  In India, cuisine like languages, vary immensely around the country.  In Bangalore we’re still looking for a place to get what Prachee refers to as “home” food, which is typical of the state of Maharashtra (or Marathi).

We did have a couple realizations in Pune: 1) From a weather perspective, we are very lucky we live in Bangalore.  Pune was HOT! As we were leaving, the airport sign told me that it had reached 39C (102F) … and this is only the beginning of summer!  2) Even though it has only been a month since we arrived in India and we still live in Corporate Housing, Bangalore already feels like home.  Prachee and I decided that is definitely a good thing.

Martin & Pernille’s Wedding Weekend

IMG_1958.JPGCopenhagen, Denmark.

This fairytale has all the necessary elements, a castle, a beautiful bride and a handsome groom, an evil fire and most importantly a happy ending!  Let me start at the beginning. About a week before Prachee and I are supposed to fly to Copenhagen for Pernille and Martin’s wedding, we get a call from Martin, the wedding might not happen the upcoming weekend!  A fire had ravaged the main tower of the Danish castle where the ceremony and reception were to take place.  Martin had already gone through possible solutions including hiring a crane to hold up the tower roof so as to insure it would not collapse on his dancing guests.  Prachee and I had a decision to make, should we still go to Copenhagen or try to re-schedule for the yet to be determined new wedding date? 

The bags were practically packed, so we decided to go for it, and are we glad we did.  Many from IESE were in a similar situation as us, so it turned into a mini IESE Reunion with Marc & Sybille, Ari & Ruby, Nico & Reina, Prachee and I joining the Bride & Groom for a fantastic weekend in Copenhagen.  The weather was sunny and warm, that begs for long, leisurely lunches at outdoor cafes – we happily obliged.  We had traditional Danish food, sampling such delights as smoked salmon, herring and something with a raw egg on top which was delicious, but the name escapes me!  All of it chased with copius amounts of schnapps.  I must comment that all of the wonderful food we ate stands in stark contrast with the Danish obsession with street hot dog carts.  I had to have one of course, there was no way I was leaving Denmark without having a hot dog with “remoulade. 

Martin & Pernille’s family and friends made the most of the weekend and organized dinner & dancing at a Copenhagen hot spot called Oil.  The Moet was flowing, the food plentiful and we spent a wonderful evening with those that are closest to the happy couple.  As part of our weekend tour, the out-of-towners even got treated to a speed boat ride through the canals surrounding old Copenhagen.  Including a mandatory stop at the world famous HCA “Little Mermaid” statue.  The fabulous weekend drew to a close with Martin, Pernille, Prachee and I at the airport.  We were heading back to San Francisco, they were going on their honeymoon – no sense in postponing that!Don’t worry, I haven’t forgotten about the happy ending.  Pernille & Martin married on December 16, 2006 at the Holckenhavn Castle as they’d always planned.  Unfortunately for Prachee and I, we were unable to attend.  You can find their website at: http://www.pernilleandmartin.com/

By Charles Vignoles. Reprinted from IESE MBA 2005 Newsletter. http://www.iesemba2005.com

Charles & Prachee’s Guide to Spain

Barcelona
Las Ramblas – tourist hotspot, but a must see.  Stroll down the center pedestrian walkway, admire the “living statues” or sit at a café and people watch (watch out for pickpockets & scam artists)
Barrio Gotico (if facing south on las ramblas, it’s on your left) – Small boutiques/stores line the narrow streets.  Can be intimidating at night, but is very safe if you stay on the main thoroughfares.  Calle Ferran dissects the Gotico in 2 and has many restaurants/shops.  Also has many cool restaurants but tend to be tucked away, so get directions from the hotel before going.  Great place to stroll, shop and get lost.  Barcelona Cathedral is also in this neighborhood
Recommended Restaurants: Pla – hip out of the way place that has fusion Barcelona cuisine.
El Raval (facing south on las ramblas, on your right) – gritty, immigrant portion of the city.  Probably best avoided after dark unless you are with locals.  Some great ethnic restaurants, alternative bars and is an up & coming area of the city.  Rambla de Raval has some interesting bars & restaurants.
Plaza Catalunya – at the top of las Ramblas and the transportation hub of the city.  Great place to start your exploring as most everything is walking distance away.  Café Zurich is overpriced and full of tourists but is a convenient meeting spot that everyone knows.
El Born – hip and trendy part of town.  Great boutiques and restaurants although they can be expensive.
Recommended restaurants:      

  • Cal Pep – one of the best restaurants in Barcelona.  Try the Calamari.
  • Sandwich and Friends – on the Paseo del Born, great for a quick unique sandwich and people watching from the outdoor seating area
  • La Paradetta (behind the old “Mercado”) – Seafood store turned restaurant.  Great for massive quantities of supremely fresh fish.

Gracia – this are of the city is often overlooked by tourists as it is a bit out of the way.  Great restaurants and a bohemian flavor.  Great Lebanese area.  Many restaurants off the plazas and on Carrer Verdi.  Shopping on Gran de Gracia.
Diagonal – High end shopping and business District.  Nice tree lined walkways, but lots of traffic. 
Paseo de Gracia – like Diagonal, it has lots of high end shopping, but definitely worth the walk.  There are a couple of Gaudi houses (Casa Batllo & La Pedrera).  Walk up from Plaza Catalunya to Diagonal.  If you continue past Diagonal you get to Gracia.
Montjuic & Tibidabo – The two “hills” of Barcelona.  Pick one, the views are very similar.  Both require various combinations of public transport unless you have a car.
Gaudi – this architect gave Barcelona much of its “look” either directly or through his influence.  You can see his work on Paseo de Gracia (also a nice shopping street) or go up to Parc Guell.
A good way to see a lot of the city quickly is to take the Bus Turistic.  Ask at your hotel for the closest stop (you can get on at any of its stops) or go to the start of the tour at Plaza Catalunya.
South of Barcelona are a lot of nice beaches, but Sitges is worth a day trip even if it’s not beach weather.  Great little town with seaside church.  Big gay scene during weekends and especially in the summer with lots of art and culture festivals.  Big Carnaval in February.
North of Barcelona is the “Costa Brava.”  Recommended places are Llafranc and surroundings, Tossa del Mar and Cadaques.  Figueres is a bit inland and houses the Dali museum.  A must see for Dali fans and very interesting for all others.  A car is a must to really be able to see the Costa Brava.
Northern Spain
San Sebastian – Gorgeous city, fantastic urban beach, phenomenal cuisine (can be expensive to stay there and eat there).  If you drive stay in the outskirts or nearby towns.  30 minutes to French border and not far from Biarritz.
Bilbao – see the Guggenheim and stay for the world renowned cuisine.  Very pretty city set on a hillside, although we didn’t have the chance to explore it in depth.
Santander – ugly city, but very nice beaches in the “El Sardinero” area.  Worth checking out if the weather is nice.
Santiago de Compostela – never been but it is the terminus of the “Camino de Santiago” a religious pilgrimage route across northern Spain.  Supposed to be a very beautiful city. 
Galician Atlantic Coast – phenomenal seafood
Southern Spain
Sevilla is a must see.  Especially the Cathedral, el Barrio de Santa Cruz & the Alcazar.  Get lost in its old town with its windy streets and picturesque houses.
Recommended restaurants:  Bodega Santa Cruz – cram in there with locals and tourists for the best tapas and beer in town.  Lots of great little bars and restaurants
Cordoba – easy day trip from Sevilla.  Walk the streets and have lunch there.  Main attraction is La Mesquita – a Moorish Mosque with mesmerizing red and white arches that has a Catholic Cathedral built in the middle of it.
Granada – The Alhambra dominates the scene here and is definitely a must see.  Make sure to get your tickets in advance through the web or the BBVA phone number (you won’t regret it).  Do it early, because they only reserve a certain amount of tickets.  If you can’t get the reserved tickets, get to the Box office 1.5 to 2 hrs before it opens to make the line (especially on weekends).
Granada has lots of great bars and is home of the  free tapa with every round of drinks.
The coast of southern Spain is beautiful but can be very crowded and over-developed depending on the place and time of year.  Skip this unless you are going during summer (avoid August… the entire north of the country is in the south.)
Balearic Islands
Great islands in the Mediterranean.  Heavy party scene on Ibisa and Menorca.  Mallorca is bigger and more laid back.  Dramatic changes is scenery.  Rocky coves & Caribbean like sand and blue water beaches.  Flights or ferries from Barcelona or Valencia.
Madrid
It is more your typical big capital city.  Lots of museums, restaurants and a very active nightlife.  Dinner is very late (like in all of Spain), but Madrid even more so.  If you go to a restaurant before 10pm  you will likely be dining alone.  Lots of good day trip to the nearby cities that are accessible by train.

Christmas in Italy

Charles & Prachee in PortofinoDuring the Christmas break, Prachee and I decided to take advantage of the fact we were in Europe and do a Giro d’ Italia. We flew to Milan the morning after the Christmas party (still with a hangover), and spent a couple of days with some family friends. Since we had rented a car we headed towards the western coast and went to Portofino, Santa Marguerita and had a late lunch of ciabatta, parma ham and fresh pesto on a park bench in Rapallo. We stopped for the night in La Spezia which we made into our base to explore the Cinque Terre. Unfortunately, the next day it rained, so we were only able to see Monterosso and Vernazza, both very quaint little towns of the Cinque Terre that we’ll probably have to come back to during warm weather. However, the absolute highlight of our time in La Spezia had to be that we found a restaurant that served Faina (flat fried “dough” made out of garbanzo flour that I love and had only had in Uruguay). We ate there for dinner both nights we were in town. Next we drove to San Gimigiano, a walled town in the Tuscan countryside, and then on to Siena where we stayed the night. We nearly had to spend the night in the car after driving around looking for the hotel through the old city’s cobbled maze-like streets. A very cold and windy day in Siena meant that we spent it hurrying from coffee shop to restaurant in order to stay warm.

We finally arrived in Rome on the 24th and spent Christmas Eve and Christmas walking around the city. All shops were closed and so were most of the tourist sites. On the 26th we were joined by Craig and his wife Grace; I worked with Craig during my last year at Product Planning in Toyota. We started out at the Vatican, but the line was so ridiculously long for the Museum and Sistine Chapel that we had to decide to leave it for the next trip. At St. Peter’s we climbed the stairs all the way up to the top of the Dome which has a fantastic view of all of Rome. In the afternoon we also went to the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps and ended up at a fantastic restaurant called Gusto that had been recommended by an Italian classmate at IESE. On the 28th we were on the road again heading north to Florence and decided to stop at a town called Orvieto which was a short detour off the Autostrade (toll highway). Much to our surprise, they were having a Jazz Festival sponsored by Alfa Romeo and so had on display many brand new and classic Alfa’s. We also had lunch at a fantastic little wine bar that one of the girls at the Alfa stand had recommended! On Monday morning we were ready to see Florence, but discovered that the museums are not open on Mondays. We decided we’d come back to the Uffizi first thing Tuesday morning so we made the most of a rainy day in Florence by wandering the streets and walking to a nearby lookout for panoramic views of the city. On Tuesday after the Uffizi we headed north again toward Bergamo, stopping briefly in Modena to see one more church!

On the 31st we flew back to Barcelona arriving in mid-afternoon. We joined my friend Kate and her family and friends visiting from the U.S. for dinner at her house and then headed to the Ramblas after midnight to get the Barcelonian’s perspective on New Year’s Eve. On the 1st, Craig and Grace left for Bilbao and San Sebastian while Prachee and I recuperated from our vacation and Prachee did some last minute shopping! When Craig and Grace returned from the Basque region, we showed them the sights around Barcelona. Unfortunately, Prachee left to go back to LA to finish her MBA on the 5th (hopefully she’ll be back soon!) and Craig and Grace headed back on the 6th! Everyone leaving was a bit depressing so it was fortunate that I had booked a cheap flight to Sevilla to visit some family friends, party Andalucia style and to finally get to see more of Spain besides Catalunya. Sevilla is a wonderful city and I even had the opportunity to make day trips to Carmona and Cordoba.

For the F1 fans in the group: This morning I flew back from Sevilla to Barcelona with some of the techs and mechanics for the Ferrari Formula 1 Team. They had just finished testing at the Jerez circuit and were heading back home. They looked very impressive; all dressed exactly alike with khaki’s, black parkas and bright Ferrari red bags. The vacation is over and school starts tomorrow, but I think I can honestly say that I made the most of it.

Imagestation has gone under so I uploaded the photos to my gallery, however, note that while I tried my best, the order of the photos might no longer match that of the description below (Editors Note: Nov 30, 2007)

Hope you had a wonderful holiday season. Keep in touch! Charles